Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts

Friday, December 11, 2015

The Flatiron

 

Last weekend I finally crossed something off my Arizona bucketlist that I've wanted to do since I got out here for grad school: camp on top of the Flatiron in the Superstition Mountains. Before I got to Arizona I was researching the best hikes to do and the Siphon Draw Trail to the Flatiron at Lost Dutchman State Park consistently came up. Within the first week of moving to Arizona I completed the hike for the first time and as I descended from the summit I ran into a group of backpackers who were slowly heading for the top. "You're allowed to camp up here?" I asked, "That's so cool!". I promised myself before I graduated I would spend the night at the top of the Superstitions and with graduation looming next week last weekend was the perfect time to do it.

The Superstitions are appropriately named for the numerous legends and myths surrounding the peaks. When settlers first arrived in Arizona they heard Pima legends about the mountain range, stories that the mountains were haunted with the ancestors of indigenous people or home to wicked spiritual deities. The mountain range has only grown more mysterious since European settlement in the area, particularly due to the legends of the Lost Dutchman's Gold Mine. Lost Dutchman State Park, the site of the Siphon Draw Trailhead at the base of the Superstitions, is named after the tale.

According to legend, a family from Mexico, the Peraltas for whom the Peralta trail is named, discovered a gold mine in the superstitions around 1840. As they attemped to bring the gold back to Mexico they were attacked and killed by Apaches and the mine was lost. 30 years later a German immigrant named Jacob Waltz (German, Dutch, who cares. Arizonans are not too concerned with the details) supposedly found the mine with his partner, Jacob Weiser, who was mysteriously killed, leaving only Jacob Waltz aware of the location of the mine. The mine has been lost ever since Waltz's death and is rumored to be somewhere in the vicinity of Weaver's Needle. This has led many people to attempt to locate the mine, resulting in the deaths and disappearances of several people who become lost, run out of water, or fall to their deaths.

Goldmine or not the Superstitions themselves are an incredible attraction. Towering rock spires have been carved from the eroding volcanic caldera, making for some very unique and interesting geology. The mountains are part of the Tonto National Forest and have been designated as a federally listed Wilderness Area. During the spring after winters with high precipitation the base of the mountains at Lost Dutchman State Park become a field of golden flowers from the blooming Brittlebrush and Palo Verdes. The area is also home to a wide variety of desert wildlife.


Our hike started at the Siphon Draw Trailhead in Lost Dutchman State Park. Entry fees are $7 per vehicle with a $5 additional overnight fee if you are camping on top of the Flatiron. The hike takes about 6 hours round trip so it can easily be done in a day. The first mile or so of the hike goes through open desert with plenty of Giant Saguaro and other desert vegetation. The trail is relatively gentle in slope so not much elevation is gained. Along the way the trail passed through a gate to enter to the Superstition Wilderness, leaving Lost Dutchman State Park behind.



The next half mile gets much steeper and within a mile and a half the trail enters a basin of polished rock where water is "siphoned" from the Superstitions. From this point forward the trail becomes very steep, required alot of rock scrambling and climbing to get to the top. Over the last mile and a half of the trail, a majority of the nearly 3000 ft. elevation will be gained.

Canyon Wren
 



Once the top of the draw is reached there are several options to explore. Following the trail to the left will take you to a scenic overlook at Lost Dutchman State Park. There is also a memorial to a family that was killed in a plane crash on the mountain in 2011. Heading to the right will take you to the Flatiron, which will provide an incredible view in each direction. The view from the Flatiron is panorama, Four Peaks to the north, Gold Canyon (my favorite golf course in Arizona) to the south, the Valley to the west, and the Superstitions to the east.



We put up the tent, which was more difficult than usual due to the high winds on the Flatiron. After cooking a backpacker's meal of Mountain House Teriyaki Chicken, which wasn't bad!, we were treated to an incredible sunset and amazing views of the city lights coming on below. As darkness set in we had an unbelievable panorama of lights coming from the sprawl of metropolitan Phoenix below and the stars above.




 

We woke up just before sunrise and headed for the summit of the Superstitions, a 15-20 minute scramble up some boulders from the top of the draw. We arrived at the summit just as the sun was rising over the horizon. It was one of the most beautiful sunrises I've ever seen. We could see Weaver's Needle in the distance, a 1000 ft. tall spire and rumored marker of the Lost Dutchman's Gold.












 

Our descent was uneventful and we made it down off the mountain within about 3 hours. We were incredibly sore the next few days as a result of the steep elevation change but the hike was absolutely amazing and it was one of the coolest places I've gotten to spend the night outdoors.


The hike:
Siphon Draw Trail: 5.9 miles round trip, 2640 ft. elevation gain
There is no water or bathroom on the trail so pack accordingly!
For more information check out Lost Dutchman State Park:
http://azstateparks.com/parks/LODU/index.html

Leave No Trace!

Sunday, November 15, 2015

McDowell Sonoran Preserve: Bell Pass Trail

I spent my Saturday afternoon back up in the McDowells, this time hiking from the Gateway Trailhead up to Bell Pass. I've hiked the Gateway loop many times, but this was the first time I have ever been on the Bell Pass Trail. Wow, I have been missing out!

The Gateway Trailhead is located on the west side of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve off of Thompson Peak Road. It's very popular with hikers accessing the Gateway loop and some shorter nature trails that provide some awesome hiking opportunities for families with small kids or people who aren't interested in strenuous elevation gain. My route took me along the south section of the Gateway loop, reaching the Bell Pass Trail after 1.5 miles of flat hiking on a wide path. Along this section of the trail I saw alot of people out enjoying the beautiful weather.

Thompson Peak seen from the Bell Pass Trail
Thompson Peak seen from the Bell Pass Trail
The ribs of a Giant Saguaro
Giant Saguaro

Once I reached the Bell Pass Trail, the crowds dropped off completely. Along the entire 2 mile trail up to Bell Pass I didn't see a single person on the way up and only passed one group of a few people on the way down. I don't know of many other trails that can give you that level of solitude on a Saturday afternoon so close to an urban environment.

The first mile or so of the Bell Pass Trail is relatively flat. It travels through a canyon formed by Thompson Peak towering overhead to the south and McDowell Peak to the north. Along the way I saw a few mule deer, several different species of birds and lizards, and tons of tall Saguaros.

Facing east towards the valley
The beginning of the switchbacks
 The second mile of the Bell Pass Trail picks up a majority of the elevation gain, becoming much steeper. After a series of switchbacks the trail arrives at Bell Pass, elevation 3,204 ft. The view is pretty great, providing a 360 degree panorama of the McDowell Mountains and the valley. Four Peaks is visible to the east while looking to the west Camelback and the Phoenix Mountain Preserve can be seen. Looking down at the valley makes you feel like you are very high up (you are 1500 ft. above the trailhead at this point) but McDowell Peak and Thompson Peak are still 700 ft. above.

Looking down towards the start of the switchbacks
Looking east towards the valley from the top of the switchbacks
From Bell Pass you have several options to continue hiking through the preserve. The trail continues half a mile northeast to meet a fork. Heading right will take you to the Prospector Trail, which links up the road to the top of Thompson Peak while heading left will continue along the Bell Pass Trail to the East End Trail, which can be taken all the way to the Tom's Thumb Trailhead or back to the Gateway Trailhead via the Windgate Pass Trail. Since I started my hike late in the afternoon I decided to turn around and head back down the way I came. During winter months the park closes around 5:30 to hikers in order to give the desert critters their own time in the preserve.

Bell Pass
Four Peaks seen from Bell Pass

Facing east from Bell Pass
Hedgehog Cactus

Hedgehog Cactus
Teddy Bear Cholla with Camelback Mountain in the background

Facing west from Bell Pass
 I returned back down the Bell Pass Trail, arriving at the Gateway loop during the golden hour. Sunset in the desert is one of the coolest things about living in Arizona. As I got back to the car I saw the most interesting thing I've seen in the McDowells, a guy riding a unicycle with a mountain bike tire. I'm not sure how that worked out for him but I think I'll stick to my own two feet.

Descending the switchbacks
Fishhook Cactus

Saguaros along the trail with Thompson Peak in the background
Teddy Bear Cholla and Giant Saguaro

A bird nest in a Teddy Bear Cholla
Looking back up at Thompson Peak from the Gateway Loop

The Hike:

Gateway Loop/Bell Pass Trail to Bell Pass out and back, 7 miles, 1500 ft. elevation gain.

Leave No Trace!