Fall is here! Aspen viewing in Flagstaff

Every fall, Arizonans head from the Phoenix area up to Flagstaff by the thousands to experience the changing of leaves. Like so many of my neighbors in the Phoenix area, I am a nostalgic midwesterner that misses the change of seasons. While people here in the valley can pretend that it's fall with their pumpkin spice everything, halloween decorations, and lazy Sundays spent watching football, it's still 90-ish degrees everyday until late October. Yesterday I made the drive up north with some friends to experience 2 of the things I miss most about midwestern autumn, cool air and beautiful changing leaves.

While a majority of the Coconino National Forest in Flagstaff is evergreen Ponderosa Pine, the area gets extremely beautiful every October due to the presence of Quaking Aspens, especially in the Inner Basin on the northeast side of Kachina Peaks. The aspen groves turn into almost surreal places during the fall with the white trunks and golden-orange leaves making a stark contrast with the evergreen pines and blue skies. Fall in Flagstaff is incredibly colorful and while the aspen population might not be as large as the ones in Colorado, hiking here is still an experience I am so grateful to have.

 

Due to the large numbers of leaf peepers making their way into the Inner Basin and the treacherous road on the way up, the US Forest Service was limiting access to the area to 50 vehicles at a time this weekend. To dodge some of the crowds, we made our way around towards the far north side of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness, to the Abineau-Bear Jaw trailhead. The trailhead sits in a large meadow north of the mountains, and is typically much less crowded than Humphreys Trail or the Inner Basin Trail due to the longer driving on some pretty rough dirt roads. I've hiked the Abineau-Bear Jaw Loop twice, a 7 mile loop with some beautiful scenery of the peaks and views out to the north of the rim of the Grand Canyon in the distance. However, this time we would only be using the Bear Jaw trail to access the Waterline Trail, which we would be following around the mountain to reach the aspen groves surrounding the inner basin.

We started our hike in the afternoon and after about a half mile of hiking reached a fork. Veering left, we followed the Bear Jaw Trail, and within a few minutes were gazing upwards and the beautiful golden leaves of aspens. Aspens are very interesting trees because their large groves are actually a single organism connected by the roots. Some biologists think that the largest living organism on the planet is actually a grove of aspens. While most of them turn a beautiful golden color during the fall, some contain hues of oranges and reds, making them some of the most beautiful fall trees in the west. We continued along the bear jaw, gaining nearly 2000 feet of elevation over 2.5 miles, until we reached the waterline trail.

The waterline trail is a wide dirt road used by the forest service to access an old waterline around the mountain. After the steep climb up the bear jaw trail, the flat, well maintained water line was very much appreciated. Trees growing on either side of the waterline made a tunnel lasting a mile or so.

As we approached the inner basin the trees began to part and beautiful views of Lockett Meadow below became visible. Looking out past the meadow we could see O'Leary Peak and Sunset Crater Volcano. We wound up hiking nearly 3 miles along the waterline trail, turning back just before reaching the junction with the Inner Basin Trail due to the setting sun. The waterline provided us with great views of the peaks and the aspens. We arrived back at the car just before darkness and made our way into Flagstaff for some Thai Food before driving back to the valley. It was only an afternoon among the changing leaves, but it finally felt like the season I love so much back home.

The Hike: Bear Jaw Trail to Waterline to Inner Basin, 10ish miles round trip, 2,000 ft. elevation gain

Leave No Trace!

O'Leary Lookout

One of my favorite hikes in the Flagstaff area is the hike up to O'Leary Peak. Located just outside of Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, the 10 mile round trip hike features 1,900 ft of elevation gain up to panoramic views from the 8,916 ft. summit: Kachina Peaks to the west, Sunset Crater Volcano to the south, the rims of the Grand Canyon to the north, and the Painted Desert to the east. The trail is also conveniently located next to Bonito Campground, my favorite campground in Flagstaff, making it a great day hike to be paired with some exploring through Sunset Crater Volcano/ Wupatki National Monuments for a weekend up in Flagstaff. This was my 3rd time hiking the trail, but it was very special because I got to do the hike with my dad and 3 of his friends who were making their first trip up to Flagstaff.

The trailhead is located in the Coconino National Forest just off FR 545 near the O'Leary Group Campsites, which can be accessed by taking Highway 89 north from Flagstaff towards Page. We got on the trail around 10 AM after making the morning drive up from Phoenix. Unlike some of the other trails in Flagstaff that are more rugged, the trail to O' Leary Lookout is wide and well graded, it's actually a gated roadway that's used by the US Forest Service to haul equipment up to the tower. The first mile or so of the trail is relatively flat, moving through Ponderosa Pine and a few small Quaking Aspens past the northern edge of the Lava Flow from Sunset Crater Volcano. Named for the sunset-like coloration of the volcanic rocks at the top of the cone, the volcano last erupted approximately 1,000 years ago, spreading cinder and volcanic rock for miles around it. 

Sunset Crater Volcano and the Lava Field

Ponderosa Pine

The creation of Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument is actually a pretty interesting story. During the filming of Zane Grey's movie "Avalanche" in 1928, it was planned to detonate explosives on Sunset Crater Volcano to create an avalanche. However, people spoke out against the plan to destroy the volcano and President Herbert Hoover formally created the National Monument in 1930, protecting both the volcano and the lava field surrounding it. It's really cool to see how public concern can play such an important role in conservation. Up until 1973, NPS permitted hiking up to the top of the cone, but closed the trail due to excessive erosion damage which is still visible on parts of the volcano today. Being just north of the volcano, O' Leary Peak offers visitors the opportunity to see the volcano from a distance without damaging it.

Looking south from the trail at the first switchback

Rabbitbrush and Common Mullein blooming with Kachina Peaks in the background

Halfway to the top

Kachina Peaks

Looking South

One of my favorite things about the trail is the amount of wildflowers that can be seen along it. Lupines, Skyrocket, Common Mullein, Rabbitbrush, and many others are seen all along the trail, with some of the most beautiful displays sitting right at the edges of switchbacks with Kachina Peaks as a backdrop. The peak time of year to see these flowers is July-September. Wildlife viewing is also very good. Abert's Squirrels, Stellars Jays, Ravens, Horned Lizards, and Western Tanagers can be commonly seen among the pines.

Lupine

Sunset Crater Beardtongue, native only to Sunset Crater

Skyrocket

A bee visiting Rabbitbrush

A wasp on an aster

A very small Horned Lizard

As we followed the trail up towards the top the views got better and better. First, a slight increase of elevation showed the expanse of the lava flow. After another set of switchbacks, the Kachina Peaks became visible. The final 1,000 ft. of the trail after the switchbacks is a very steep trek, but the rewarding view from the top is unbelievable. During the summer months, there is a very friendly fire lookout working in the tower and she has so much knowledge about the area. We spent a good half hour at the top enjoying the scenic view, looking down into Sunset Crater Volcano, and drinking our summit beers, Lumberyard's Red Ale (brewed in Flagstaff).We descended the mountain back the way we came and headed back into Flagstaff before making our way back to the valley.

O' Leary Lookout

Summit Beer: Lumberyard Red Ale

Kachina Peaks seen from the summit of O' Leary Peak

Sunset Crater Volcano seen from the summit of O' Leary Peak

The Hike:
O' Leary Trail, 10 miles roundtrip, 1,900 ft. elevation gain

Read more about Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument here:
http://www.nps.gov/sucr/index.htm

Leave No Trace!

Kendrick Peak and FR 151/418 Scenic Drive

Bonito Park, Flagstaff

This weekend I finally got to return up to Flagstaff after nearly 2 months of being unable to schedule a trip up to the high country. With temperatures in Phoenix hovering around 110 this weekend we headed for higher ground and cooler temperatures. Sitting at an elevation of 7000 ft. Flagstaff is a top destination for people looking to get out of the summer heat of the valley. We were also looking forward to spending some time in the greenery of the forest. We were heading up to hike the Kendrick Trail to the lookout tower at the summit of Kendrick Peak. At 10,418 ft. it sits just outside the top 10 highest peaks in Arizona but provides excellent views of the Kachina Peaks to the northeast. The rims of the Grand Canyon are visible to the north on a clear day as are the mountains surrounding Prescott to the south. Located within the 6,510 acre Kendrick Mountain Wilderness Area and spanning the border of the Coconino and Kaibab National Forests, the trails to the summit of Kendrick Peak provide much more solitude than the routes to the top of Mt. Humphreys (Arizona's highest point). There are three routes to the top of Kendrick Peak: the Kendrick Trail, the Pumpkin Trail, and the Bull Basin Trail, each around 9 miles in length. We decided on the Kendrick Trail for no particular reason. It was also a special trip because this would be our last hike with one of our friends from ASU as he would be returning to France in a few days. Although we are so sad to see him leave, we were so lucky to have him in our lab and I can't wait to visit him someday and get out for a hike in Europe with my Daft Punk loving friend. 

We began our hike around 2 PM. At 9.2 miles in round trip length with 2,600 of elevation gain the trail was challenging but incredibly scenic. The trail begins by hiking through pine forest into a large meadow of common mullein, lupines, and charred trees. A 15,000 acre forest fire broke out in 2000, resulting in significant loss of vegetation within the Kendrick Mountain Wilderness. The meadow was also very interesting because as we walked along the trail we were surrounded by dozens of cows, which are grazed in the area as a means of vegetation control. After only a quarter mile of hiking we began to hear thunder in the distance. Although we saw storm clouds brewing on the horizon, the forecast had called for only a 10% chance of showers and with no lightning visible we decided we would continue on the trail as long as we could.

Kendrick Trail through a meadow of Common Mullein

Hoary Aster along Kendrick Trail

A view of Kachina Peaks from the Kendrick Trail

Hummingbird along Kendrick Trail

Indian Paintbrush

Ferns covered much of the trail

As the trail climbed, groves of Quaking Aspen provided beautiful scenery

The trail climbed quickly with many steep switchbacks up the south side of the mountain. Unlike the Humphrey's Trail which keeps you hidden in the dense trees until nearly reaching the saddle, this trail provided excellent views out to the meadows below along a majority of the trail. As we approached the last half mile to the top of the peak we looked out to the southwest to see a sheet of rain headed quickly in our direction. With there being seemingly no option but to get drenched we began to put on our rain gear and pack away our cameras. However, descending hikers informed us that we were only a few minutes below the old lookout cabin. We rushed up the trail and arrived at the cabin just as the rain began to hit. The small cabin, which was built in 1911 to house fire lookouts, fit the 5 of us but did not leave much room to spread out. We enjoyed a 20 minute wait inside the cabin while thunder cracked overhead and rain poured down around us. 

The old lookout cabin, built in 1911, where we took cover from the storm

Once the storm had passed we decided the make a break for the summit. We could see the lookout tower ahead of us and within 10 minutes we were standing on the patio of the tower looking out at the incredible scenery. The tower is staffed by US Forest Service lookouts during the week, but on weekends volunteers rotate shifts atop the peak. The volunteer at the peak was very friendly, pointing out landmarks in the distance including Granite Mountain to the south and the north and south rims of the Grand Canyon on the north horizon. The views were absolutely incredible and as we took photos rays of light began to shine out from under the clouds on the west and a rainbow appeared alongside the Kachina Peaks in the east. Part of why Kendrick Peak was so amazing was being able to enjoy the scenery of the Kachina Peaks. Although the trails to the summit of Mt. Humphreys are beautiful, it's so awesome to be looking at the peaks instead of looking off of them.

Approaching the summit

The Kendrick Peak Lookout Tower

Facing West into Kaibab National Forest

Kendrick Peak Lookout Tower Patio

A rainbow alongside Kachina Peaks

Looking North towards the Grand Canyon

Looking South towards Granite Mountain and Prescott

With the sun setting and daylight fading we began our descent down the mountain back the way we came. Hiking the through the golden hour provided beautiful lighting but soon we were hiking through pitch darkness waiting for the full moon to come up. As we hiked through the woods we began to be surrounded by pairs of eyes glowing in the light of our headlamps. After initially being scared at the possibility of black bears and mountain lions and the sound of coyotes out somewhere in the wilderness, we soon realized that the eyes belonged to the herds of cows grazing away on the mountainside. We arrived at the car some 2 hours after beginning our descent, with the last half hour of our hike traveling through darkness. We headed into Flagstaff for dinner at Lumberyard Brewing before making our way around the Kachina Peaks to our campsite at Bonito Campground for the night.

The beginning of sunset peaking out below the clouds

Descending the mountain during the golden hour

Located just outside Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, Bonito Campground is one of my favorite campgrounds ever. The campground is dotted with Ponderosa Pine and in the summer features several species of wildflowers. It also has some of the cleanest bathrooms of any campground I've ever seen. We've made a few visits up to the campground this summer, and surprisingly the campground host, Bob, recognized us which made us feel very welcome. We awoke to clear skies overhead and enjoyed breakfast burritos cooked in camp while Stellar's Jays and Abert's Squirrels chattered in the trees overhead. After breakfast we packed up camp and headed to Bonito Park, a huge meadow filled with golds, reds, and purples of the summer wildflower bloom. Prairie Sunflower and Skyrocket were abundant and the views of the Kachina Peaks to the north and Sunset Crater Volcano to the south made for a beautiful panorama.

Bonito Campground

Abert's Squirrel

Stellar's Jay

Wildflowers in Bonito Park with Sunset Crater Volcano in the background

Prairie Sunflower

Kachina Peaks in the background with Prairie Sunflower at Bonito Park

The clear skies quickly faded and storms blew in with lots of rain. Although we had originally hoped for another hike, it became apparent that it would not be any fun and with lightning strikes safety became an issue as well. We instead decided to take a scenic drive through the Coconino National Forest along some of the fire roads around Kachina Peaks. We drove highway 180 to FR 151 and headed north along it through meadows of tall grass and forests full of Quaking Aspen and Ponderosa Pine. The meadows near Hart Prairie were especially beautiful.

Quaking Aspen along FR 151

FR 151

Lupine along FR 151 near Hart Prairie

We reached FR 418 and headed east around Kachina Peaks past the Abineau Bear Jaw Trailhead. We spotted a Mule Deer doe and her two fawns and many beautiful wildflowers including Silvery Lupine, MacDougal's Verbena, Butter and Eggs, Hoary Aster, and Hairy Fleabane. We drove past the charred logs of a forest fire with a beautiful view of Kachina Peaks rising to the south. Wildflowers overtook the remnants of the burn and provided a sense of life to the meadow.

A bee visits MacDougal's Verbena along FR 418

Beautiful Quaking Aspen mixed among Ponderosa Pine

Mt. Humphrey's from FR 418

A Mule Deer nursing a fawn

A pair of Mule Deer fawns

Looking North from FR 418 near the Abineau - Bear Jaw Trailhead

A meadow near the Abineau - Bear Jaw Trailhead

The remnants of a forest fire north of Kachina Peaks

As the rain began to pick up arrived back at highway 89 and headed south back into Flagstaff, passing homes surrounded by fields of yellow flowers and talking about how nice it would be to one day retire in Flagstaff. We stopped for some cajun food at Satchmo's and headed back down I-17 towards the heat.

Homes with a beautiful view along Highway 89

The Hike:

Kendrick Trail to Kendrick Peak Lookout Tower, 9.2 miles out and back, 2.600 ft. elevation gain

The Drive: FR 151 Northbound to FR 418 Eastbound to Highway 89

Enjoy the hike and drive and as always leave no trace!