O'Leary Lookout

One of my favorite hikes in the Flagstaff area is the hike up to O'Leary Peak. Located just outside of Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, the 10 mile round trip hike features 1,900 ft of elevation gain up to panoramic views from the 8,916 ft. summit: Kachina Peaks to the west, Sunset Crater Volcano to the south, the rims of the Grand Canyon to the north, and the Painted Desert to the east. The trail is also conveniently located next to Bonito Campground, my favorite campground in Flagstaff, making it a great day hike to be paired with some exploring through Sunset Crater Volcano/ Wupatki National Monuments for a weekend up in Flagstaff. This was my 3rd time hiking the trail, but it was very special because I got to do the hike with my dad and 3 of his friends who were making their first trip up to Flagstaff.

The trailhead is located in the Coconino National Forest just off FR 545 near the O'Leary Group Campsites, which can be accessed by taking Highway 89 north from Flagstaff towards Page. We got on the trail around 10 AM after making the morning drive up from Phoenix. Unlike some of the other trails in Flagstaff that are more rugged, the trail to O' Leary Lookout is wide and well graded, it's actually a gated roadway that's used by the US Forest Service to haul equipment up to the tower. The first mile or so of the trail is relatively flat, moving through Ponderosa Pine and a few small Quaking Aspens past the northern edge of the Lava Flow from Sunset Crater Volcano. Named for the sunset-like coloration of the volcanic rocks at the top of the cone, the volcano last erupted approximately 1,000 years ago, spreading cinder and volcanic rock for miles around it. 

Sunset Crater Volcano and the Lava Field

Ponderosa Pine

The creation of Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument is actually a pretty interesting story. During the filming of Zane Grey's movie "Avalanche" in 1928, it was planned to detonate explosives on Sunset Crater Volcano to create an avalanche. However, people spoke out against the plan to destroy the volcano and President Herbert Hoover formally created the National Monument in 1930, protecting both the volcano and the lava field surrounding it. It's really cool to see how public concern can play such an important role in conservation. Up until 1973, NPS permitted hiking up to the top of the cone, but closed the trail due to excessive erosion damage which is still visible on parts of the volcano today. Being just north of the volcano, O' Leary Peak offers visitors the opportunity to see the volcano from a distance without damaging it.

Looking south from the trail at the first switchback

Rabbitbrush and Common Mullein blooming with Kachina Peaks in the background

Halfway to the top

Kachina Peaks

Looking South

One of my favorite things about the trail is the amount of wildflowers that can be seen along it. Lupines, Skyrocket, Common Mullein, Rabbitbrush, and many others are seen all along the trail, with some of the most beautiful displays sitting right at the edges of switchbacks with Kachina Peaks as a backdrop. The peak time of year to see these flowers is July-September. Wildlife viewing is also very good. Abert's Squirrels, Stellars Jays, Ravens, Horned Lizards, and Western Tanagers can be commonly seen among the pines.

Lupine

Sunset Crater Beardtongue, native only to Sunset Crater

Skyrocket

A bee visiting Rabbitbrush

A wasp on an aster

A very small Horned Lizard

As we followed the trail up towards the top the views got better and better. First, a slight increase of elevation showed the expanse of the lava flow. After another set of switchbacks, the Kachina Peaks became visible. The final 1,000 ft. of the trail after the switchbacks is a very steep trek, but the rewarding view from the top is unbelievable. During the summer months, there is a very friendly fire lookout working in the tower and she has so much knowledge about the area. We spent a good half hour at the top enjoying the scenic view, looking down into Sunset Crater Volcano, and drinking our summit beers, Lumberyard's Red Ale (brewed in Flagstaff).We descended the mountain back the way we came and headed back into Flagstaff before making our way back to the valley.

O' Leary Lookout

Summit Beer: Lumberyard Red Ale

Kachina Peaks seen from the summit of O' Leary Peak

Sunset Crater Volcano seen from the summit of O' Leary Peak

The Hike:
O' Leary Trail, 10 miles roundtrip, 1,900 ft. elevation gain

Read more about Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument here:
http://www.nps.gov/sucr/index.htm

Leave No Trace!